Dave Barlow © Cleveland Naturalists’ Field Club. 7th April 2024
Welcome to Cleveland Naturalists’ Field Club
Geology of the Saltburn Valley Gardens
Saltburn Valley Gardens exist in a steep-sided valley cut through Lower Lias Shales. These shales were laid down during the Jurassic period, in a shallow sea. These shales are exposed in the stream-bed and where paths have been excavated. Along most of the valley the rocks are covered in Boulder Clay deposited during the Ice Age. The Boulder Clay contains rocks derived from many areas particularly the Pennines. This is the source of most of the boulders of Carboniferous Limestone to be found in the valley. The rocks which can be found in the valley can be examined more closely along the coastal cliffs.
PH. READINGS
In order to test the acidity or alkalinity of the soil in the valley a series of pH readings was taken using a Rapitest pH meter. A total of 75 readings was recorded. These showed that in most of the valley the soil was neutral ranging from a pH of 6.0 to 7.0. Most of the grassland in the Valley Gardens registered pH 7.0. the tops of the banks gave the same reading but lower down the slopes the readings varied from 6.0 to 6.5. the silt from the river also ranged from 6.0 to 6.5. The lowest reading in the Valley Gardens was pH 5.8 which was recorded in a wet area covered in Butterbur (Petasites hybridus).
Riftswood and Marske Mill gave similar readings. The only difference was the area of coniferous woodland above the viaduct where a pH of 5.5 to 5.8 was registered.
It was interesting to note that in areas where a pH of 7.0 was registered certain plants were found which are normally associated with calcareous conditions eg. Field Rose (Rosa arvensis),Common Rock-rose (Helianthemum nummularium), and Spurge Laurel (Daphne Laureola). These plants are all rare in Cleveland and ony seemed to occur where they were not growing in competition with more robust plants. The Rock-rose was found in an area which was regularly grazed and trampled by rabbits.
BOTANICAL SURVEY OF SALTBURN VALLEY GARDENS, RIFTS WOOD AND MARSKE MILL
The following lists have been compiled over the last three years by members of the Cleveland Naturalists’ Field Club Recorders’ group. The area surveyed was divided into three main areas.
1. Saltburn Valley Gardens.
2. Rifts Wood
3. Marske Mill and the area beyond the viaduct including part of the conifereous woodland near the main Skelton footpath.
All land belonging to the owner’s of Rushpool Hall was excluded from the survey. That which was surveyed is owned by Lanbaurgh Borough Council except for the coniferous woodland beyond the viaduct which is part of the Skelton and Gilling Estate.
1. SALTBURN VALLEY GARDENS.
This is made up of quite a variety of different habitats which is reflected in the large numbe of species recorded here. These were roughly divided into the following areas.
a.-The Car Park
Many interesting maritime species are found here including Sea Beet (Beta vulgaris ssp maritima) and Slender Thistle (Carduus tenuiflorus). In bad weather this area is often flooded with brackish water.
b.-The area below the Skelton – Saltburn road as far as the terminus of the railway line.
Nearest the sea this consists of a large area of scrub consisting mainly of Blackthorn (Prunus spinosa) and Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna). This provides protection for small birds and other wild life. One small area near the road is slightly alkaline and supports some interesting plants including the Common Rock-rose (Helianthemum nummularium), which although quite common in limestone areas, is present here, at one of its few sites in Cleveland. Rabbits regularly crop the grass here and prevent the invasion of the surrounding scrub into this area.
c.- The Fairy Glen.
This lies at the end of the railway line and below the tea gardens. Although only a small area, as it is close to the beck there is quite a variety of plants here.
d.- The Nursery and Greenhouse Area.
After a century of use this area was finally closed down last year, 1991, and there is no longer a head gardener or permanent staff working here. A number of wild flowers were recorded in this area including Thale Cress (Arabidopsis thalina).
e.- The Italian Gardens and Tea Rooms.
The steep grassy bank here is cut regularly. In the spring it is covered in daffodils but there are a number of interesting wild plants on this bank including Fox and Cubs (Pilosella aurantiaca). Recently a new Monkey Puzzle Tree (Aruacaria arucana) has been planted here to replace one that died a few years ago.
f.- Camp Bank.
This is the area below Albion Terrace and near to the children’s playground. It consists of grassy areas planted with ornamental trees particularly Maples and Western Balsam Poplars. In the spring the grass is often covered with a mass of Slender Speedwell (Veronica filiformis) forming a beautiful blue carpet.
g.- The banks below the main footpath to the bungalow.
This path known as the roses walk no longer leads to the rose beds. These had to be removed after vandalism many years ago. A number of trees on these banks have had to be removed but many new trees have been planted in their place. These banks support a large variety of wild flowers throughout the year include Early Dog-violet (Viola riviniana), Early-purple Orchid (Orchis mascula), Golilocks Buttercup (Ranunculus auricomus) and Meadow Cranes-bill (Geranium pratense). Daffodils, crocuses and other bulbs have also been planted on these banks creating a mass of colour in the spring together with wild Primroses (Primula vulgaris).
h.- The banks below Glenside and near to the Albert Memorial.
Quite a variety of plants is found on these wooded banks including Monkshood (Aconitum napellus), Giant Bellflower (Campanula latifolia), Common Spotted-orchids (Dactylorhiza fuchsii) and Common Twayblade (Listera ovata). On the open grassland area are Wild Marjoram (Origanum vulgare), Agrimony (Agrimonia eupatoria) and many others. These banks are an interesting site for Tuberous Comfrey (Symphytum tuberosum). It was probably planted here in Victoria times but over the years has spread to other areas of the gardens. Unfortunately Bracken (Pteridium aquilinum) is gradually encroaching on these banks and if not kept in check could smother much of the flora here.
i.- The area behind Philmores. (The Old Assembly Rooms).
Dyer’s Greenweed (Genista tinctoria) grows here and recently Musk Thistle (Carduus nutans) and Pellitory of the Wall (Parietaria judaica). The latter has been established a long time on the wall below Teddy’s Nook but plants are now beginning to spread to other areas. This is only one of two sites in Cleveland.
j.- The wooded area above the railway engine shed.
This is an area of scrubland and the trees are mainly Sycamores so here the ground flora is not so varied. The banks near the sea are subject to erosion and because of the recent extension of the railway line the ground has been disturbed and new materials brought in, which has resulted in a number of adventive plants being introduced to this area. Tamarix (Tamarix gallico) grows here, this was probably introduced into the gardens many years ago but continues to survive the harsh conditions here. The Bristly Oxtongue (Picris echiode) is found here and is now becoming established in other parts of the gardens.
k.- Skelton Beck and the surrounding areas.
One outstanding plant occurring along the beck side is the Winter Heliotrope (Petasites fragrans). This also has probably been in these gardens since Victorian times. Its flowers have a beautiful vanilla scent. Butterbur (Petasites hybridus) is closely related to the Winter Heliotrope and is also found in wet areas near the beck. After flowering in the spring, it puts up giant leaves which dominate the area during the rest of the year.
Typical plants growing by the side of the stream include Watercress (Rorippa nasturtium aquaticum), Fool’s Water-cress (Apium nodiflorum), Branched Bur-reed (Sparganium erectum) and Water Figwort (Scrophularia auriculata). In the river itself can be found the River Water-crowfoot (Ranunculus fluitans).